2025-12-04 Chengdu to Zhangzha
High speed train journey and 3 hour bus tide to the mountains
Another hair-raising ride on a Didi taxi through Chengdu just after peak hour took us to the East Chengdu Railway Station, where we lined up to go through security. Not having a local ID card which can be scanned at a number of gates, we went through the special lane for those needing assistance, which basically means that a person scans our passports for us, then on through the x-ray machines, like at an aairport, where for the first time Penny's scissors were picked up - after careful measurement, she was allowed to keep it, as it was judged to be under the size limit.
The inside of the station is cavernous, with a central concourse surrounded by shops, toilets and entrances, and the centre containing the escalators doing down to the platforms, then there is another level over the ring of shops, all under an huge and high roof. All very clean and organised.
Our train journey was 2 hours, with the train reaching about 200 km/h between stops. Initially travelling through the plains around Chengdu, with factories, fields and apartment towers, we started to see the mountains in the distance. As we ascended we climbed out of the haze that seems to permanently envelope Chengdu, and we could get glimpses of the mountains - only to enter into a series of very long tunnels with snatches of the valleys visible as we came to a station or went over a river between the tunnels. Within the tunnels we were still going between 160 and 180 km/h.
At Songpan our train terminated, and we transferred to a bus for another 3 hours. This time we were on a very twisty road, shared with all sorts of traffic, including a herd of yaks, so the trip was somewhat slower than the train!
The scenery is spectacular - sharp snow covered peaks in the distance, Tibetan villages and monasteries, prayer flags on the hills, stupas everywhere. We are definately in the Tibetan foothills. All this very reminiscent of our trip to Nepal in 1988, with the buddhist symbols everywhere.
We arrived at our destination of Zhangzhazhen, part of the Juizhai Valley, but not in the national park, where we are visiting tomorrow, at about 1630, and had enough time for a walk around in the cold. The sun had been eclipsed by the mountains, and that was enough to send the mercury down in a hurry.
Pippa had found a lovely homestay for us, with lovely people running it. Somewhat larger with attached private rooms than would be suggested by the term, it comes complete with heat pumps, underfloor heating and heated japanese style toilet seats! About $80 a night, including a set breakfast.
She also found a great restaurant for tea, where among other things we had cordyceps fungus as one of the dishes that was served. I know Dean at one time was interested in trying grow these.
We have an early start to attempt to beat the crowds, so we will see how it goes!
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